1913 Buffalo Nickel Errors, Varieties and Value

No other year in the Buffalo nickel series packs in as much design history as 1913. Partway through the coin’s first year of production, the U.S. Mint quietly redesigned the reverse — meaning genuine 1913 nickels exist in two distinct types, struck at all three mints, with real scarcity differences between them. GetCoinHunt helps you search inventory from multiple coin dealers in one place, compare available examples, and create a wishlist alert when the right coin is not currently listed.

Design and history

James Earle Fraser’s obverse combines features from several Native American men into a single composite profile portrait, and his reverse depicts an American bison reportedly modeled in part on Black Diamond, an animal then living at the Bronx Zoo. A standard Buffalo nickel is struck in 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs 5.00 grams, measures 21.21mm across, and carries a plain edge — specifications that held for the entire 1913–1938 run.

What makes 1913 unusual is that the Mint issued two reverse designs the same year. Type 1 shows the bison standing on a raised mound, with FIVE CENTS sitting in relief on that raised ground. Mint officials soon realized the denomination wore away too quickly in pocket change, since it sat on the highest point of the design. The Mint responded by redesigning the reverse to Type 2, which lowers the bison onto a flatter, recessed line and moves FIVE CENTS into a shallower channel less exposed to wear. Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco all struck both types in 1913, per PCGS CoinFacts, which is why any 1913 listing needs to specify type as well as mint.

Errors and varieties to know

Type and mint drive scarcity more than anything else in this date. The Philadelphia Type 1 is common and inexpensive, but the 1913-D and 1913-S Type 2 issues are considerably tougher, since Type 2 dies were only in use for part of the production year at the branch mints.

PCGS also recognizes a genuine 1913 Type 1 3½ Legs (FS-901), created when excessive die polishing thinned much of the bison’s front foreleg on a Philadelphia Type 1 die. It requires the documented die markers to attribute; a worn or deliberately altered leg on an ordinary coin is not the variety.

Two Feathers dies are recognized for 1913-D Type 1 and 1913-S Type 1, where over-polishing removed the small innermost feather between Fraser’s portrait and the long feather behind it. As with the 3½ Legs coin, attribution depends on matching the documented die characteristics, not simply on a feather that’s hard to see.

How to examine a 1913 Buffalo nickel

Start by identifying type before anything else:

• Flip to the reverse and look at the ground beneath the bison’s feet. A raised mound with FIVE CENTS standing proud of the field is Type 1; a flatter, lower line with FIVE CENTS recessed into a shallow channel is Type 2.
• Check the mintmark position beneath FIVE CENTS — no mark for Philadelphia, D for Denver, S for San Francisco.
• For a claimed 3½ Legs or Two Feathers example, compare the coin under magnification and raking light against certified reference photos of the documented die; wear, a soft strike, or a scratch that happens to obscure a feather is not the same thing as a genuine polished-die variety.
• Genuine doubling on any die variety is raised and rounded with a repeatable position; flat, shelf-like doubling is mechanical and not a collectible variety.

Because Buffalo nickel dates sit high on the design and wear away quickly, some sellers use acid or engraving tools to “restore” or invent a date — a practice covered in more depth in our guide to documented counterfeit U.S. coins. Do not clean a candidate coin, and seek third-party certification before paying a premium for a scarce type, mint, or attributed variety.

Buying considerations

Certified versus raw coins

A certified coin has been authenticated, graded, and encapsulated by a service such as PCGS or NGC, with the type clearly stated on the holder label. Because the value gap between Type 1 and Type 2 (and between mints) can be significant, a raw 1913 nickel should always be checked carefully against the type diagnostics above before you assume a seller’s description is accurate.

Understanding grades and condition

Type 1’s raised FIVE CENTS wears down within a relatively small number of years of circulation, so even lightly worn Type 1 coins can show a weak or partially missing denomination — this is expected wear, not damage. Type 2’s recessed lettering holds up better. On the obverse, check the braid of hair above Fraser’s portrait and the cheekbone for the first signs of wear.

Problem coins

Cleaning, environmental damage, and rim dings turn up regularly on this date given its age. A details-graded example can be a reasonable way to acquire a tougher type or mint at lower cost, provided the stated problem and the asking price are consistent.

Suggested search terms and filters

Start broad: “1913 Buffalo nickel,” “1913 Type 1 nickel,” “1913 Type 2 nickel,” or “1913-D Buffalo nickel.”

Then narrow by:

• Type: Type 1 (raised mound) or Type 2 (recessed ground)
• Mint: no mark (Philadelphia), D (Denver), or S (San Francisco)
• Variety: 3½ Legs (FS-901) or Two Feathers, where attributed
• Certification: PCGS, NGC, or raw

Availability and pricing notes

Philadelphia Type 1 examples are common in circulated grades and reasonably priced. Type 2 coins from Denver and San Francisco, along with any certified 3½ Legs or Two Feathers example, command real premiums and should be compared against recent completed sales from a source such as Heritage Auctions or Stack’s Bowers rather than judged by asking price alone.

GetCoinHunt does not guarantee that every listing is authentic, accurately graded, or fairly priced. Authentication, grading, pricing, return policies, and fulfillment remain the responsibility of the dealer or marketplace offering the coin.

How the GetCoinHunt wishlist alert works

1. Search for the coin. Enter “1913 Buffalo Nickel” to search participating dealer inventory.
2. Review the available matches. Compare listings by type, mint, variety attribution, grade, and certification.
3. Add the search to your wishlist. If the right example isn’t available, save “1913 Buffalo Nickel” as a wishlist item with type or mint preferences where available.
4. Get notified about new matches. GetCoinHunt sends an alert when new dealer inventory matches your wishlist.
5. Evaluate the coin before buying. Verify certification and photographs, read the full listing, and review the seller’s terms.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the difference between 1913 Type 1 and Type 2?

Type 1 shows the bison on a raised mound with FIVE CENTS standing in relief; Type 2 lowers the bison onto a flatter, recessed ground line and moves FIVE CENTS into a shallower channel. The Mint made the change mid-year after realizing Type 1’s denomination wore off too fast in circulation.

Which 1913 Buffalo nickels are hardest to find?

The 1913-D and 1913-S Type 2 issues are meaningfully scarcer than the common Philadelphia Type 1, since Type 2 dies were only used for part of the year at the branch mints.

What is the 1913 3½ Legs variety?

A Philadelphia Type 1 die where excessive polishing thinned much of the bison’s front leg, cataloged by PCGS as FS-901. It must match the documented die markers to be genuine.

Is a worn-off FIVE CENTS on a Type 1 coin an error?

No. Type 1’s raised denomination was prone to wearing away quickly in circulation — that’s exactly why the Mint switched to Type 2. A missing or weak FIVE CENTS on a worn Type 1 coin is ordinary wear, not a mint error.

What if no suitable coin is currently available?

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