1914 Buffalo Nickel Errors, Varieties and Value

By its second year, the Buffalo nickel had settled into the Type 2 reverse introduced partway through 1913, and Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco all struck the design in normal production. The year is best known to specialists for a Philadelphia overdate whose exact cause is still debated among researchers. GetCoinHunt helps you search inventory from multiple coin dealers in one place, compare available examples, and create a wishlist alert when the right coin is not currently listed.

Design and history

James Earle Fraser’s design carries a composite Native American portrait on the obverse and an American bison on the reverse. Every 1914 nickel uses the Type 2 reverse, with the bison standing on a flatter, recessed ground and FIVE CENTS set into a shallow channel below. The coin is struck in 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs 5.00 grams, measures 21.21mm, and has a plain edge. Philadelphia coins carry no mintmark; Denver and San Francisco coins show a D or S beneath FIVE CENTS.

Errors and varieties to know

PCGS catalogs the Philadelphia 1914/(3), FS-101, an overdate showing remnants of an underlying numeral around the 4. Specialists have debated exactly what digit lies beneath the final 4 and how it got there, so the safest approach for a seller or buyer is to cite the certified attribution rather than assert a specific reading of the underlying numeral.

The 1914-D is a genuinely scarce regular issue with a comparatively low mintage, and the 1914-S is also a step up in difficulty from the Philadelphia coin, particularly in higher grades. Neither is an error or a die variety — both are simply lower-mintage branch-mint issues, and their premiums attract altered-mintmark fakes, which is why certification matters more for these dates than for common-date Buffalo nickels.

How to examine a 1914 Buffalo nickel

• For a claimed 1914/(3) overdate, examine the area in and around the final 4 under magnification with raking light, and compare against certified reference photos rather than relying on a description alone.
• Check the mintmark beneath FIVE CENTS carefully on any 1914-D or 1914-S candidate — a D or S that looks slightly off in shape, size, or position relative to published references can indicate an added mintmark rather than a genuine branch-mint strike.
• Genuine die doubling is raised, rounded, and repeatable; flat or shelf-like secondary lines are mechanical doubling, not a collectible variety.
• Raised lines across the field are typically die cracks; incuse marks are usually scratches or handling damage.

As with other early-date Buffalo nickels, a worn or damaged date is sometimes chemically “restored” or re-engraved to look sharper than it is — a practice discussed further in our guide to documented counterfeit U.S. coins. Avoid cleaning any candidate coin, since cleaning removes evidence needed to confirm authenticity.

Buying considerations

Certified versus raw coins

Given the debated nature of the 1914/(3) overdate and the real premiums attached to 1914-D and 1914-S, buying certified is the safer route for anything beyond a common Philadelphia coin. Confirm the certification number directly on the grading service’s website, and note that the holder label for the overdate should reflect a specific attribution rather than a generic “overdate” description.

Understanding grades and condition

Wear first shows on the high points of Fraser’s portrait — the cheekbone and braid — and on the bison’s shoulder and horn on the reverse. The 1914-D in particular is scarce enough in higher circulated and Mint State grades that condition drives price more steeply than it does for common-date Buffalo nickels.

Problem coins

Cleaned or environmentally damaged 1914 nickels are common in the marketplace given the coin’s age. A details-graded 1914-D or 1914-S can be a more affordable way to own a scarcer branch-mint date, provided the price reflects the stated problem.

Suggested search terms and filters

Start broad: “1914 Buffalo nickel,” “1914-D Buffalo nickel,” “1914-S Buffalo nickel,” or “1914 overdate nickel.”

Then narrow by:

• Issue: regular strike or 1914/(3) overdate (FS-101)
• Mint: no mark (Philadelphia), D (Denver), or S (San Francisco)
• Grade: circulated grades through Mint State
• Certification: PCGS, NGC, or raw

Availability and pricing notes

Common-date Philadelphia 1914 nickels are inexpensive and widely available. The 1914-D and 1914-S command real premiums as scarcer branch-mint issues, and certified 1914/(3) overdates trade at a further premium tied to grade and eye appeal. Compare recent completed sales before assuming an asking price is representative.

GetCoinHunt does not guarantee that every listing is authentic, accurately graded, or fairly priced. Authentication, grading, pricing, return policies, and fulfillment remain the responsibility of the dealer or marketplace offering the coin.

How the GetCoinHunt wishlist alert works

1. Search for the coin. Enter “1914 Buffalo Nickel” to search participating dealer inventory.
2. Review the available matches. Compare listings by mint, overdate attribution, grade, and certification.
3. Add the search to your wishlist. If the right example isn’t available, save “1914 Buffalo Nickel” as a wishlist item with mint or grade preferences where available.
4. Get notified about new matches. GetCoinHunt sends an alert when new dealer inventory matches your wishlist.
5. Evaluate the coin before buying. Verify certification and photographs, read the full listing, and review the seller’s terms.

Frequently asked questions

What is the 1914/(3) overdate?

A Philadelphia die, cataloged by PCGS as FS-101, showing remnants of an underlying numeral around the final 4 in the date. The exact cause has generated specialist debate, so listings should cite the certified attribution rather than a specific claim about the underlying digit.

Are the 1914-D and 1914-S rare?

They’re genuinely scarcer than the Philadelphia issue, especially in higher grades, but they are regular-issue branch-mint coins rather than errors or die varieties.

Why does certification matter more for 1914-D and 1914-S?

Their premiums make them targets for added or altered mintmarks. Certification confirms both the mintmark and the grade are genuine.

Should I clean a dull or dirty 1914 nickel before selling it?

No. Cleaning removes original surfaces and evidence a grading service needs to confirm authenticity, and it typically lowers rather than raises value.

What if no suitable coin is currently available?

Add “1914 Buffalo Nickel” to your wishlist below. You’ll be notified when newly detected dealer inventory matches your search.

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