1933 Buffalo Nickel: Why This Date Doesn't Exist

1933 marked the depth of the Great Depression, and for the second year running after 1932, no mint struck a single Buffalo nickel. GetCoinHunt helps you search inventory from multiple coin dealers in one place, compare available examples of genuine Buffalo nickel dates, and create a wishlist alert for the coin you’re actually after.

Design and history

The Buffalo nickel ran from 1913 through 1938, carrying James Earle Fraser’s composite Native American portrait on the obverse and an American bison on the reverse. Every genuine example is struck in 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs 5.00 grams, measures 21.21mm, and has a plain edge. By the time 1933 arrived, existing stockpiles of earlier nickels — combined with sharply reduced commercial demand for coinage during the worst of the economic downturn — meant the Mint simply had no need to strike a new nickel date that year.

Errors and varieties to know

No Buffalo nickels were struck bearing the date 1933 at any mint. Do not pay a premium for an acid-restored or damaged, nearly dateless nickel claimed to show this nonexistent date. A coin described as a “1933 Buffalo nickel” is, without exception, either a genuine coin from a different year that’s been misread due to wear, a chemically treated or re-engraved date, or an outright counterfeit or fantasy piece.

The pattern is consistent with the series’ other gap years: acid treatments and similar processes can etch a worn, nearly dateless coin into numeral shapes that superficially resemble a plausible but never-struck year.

How to examine a nickel offered as “1933”

• Confirm under magnification and raking light whether any digits are genuinely legible, rather than accepting a seller’s stated date without verification.
• Compare any visible numerals carefully against genuine dates from surrounding years — a worn or acid-treated coin can produce numeral shapes that only loosely resemble a real date.
• Check for seams, unnatural texture, or tool marks in the date area, which can indicate re-engraving rather than an as-struck date.
• Weigh the coin and confirm it falls at approximately 5.00 grams with a 21.21mm diameter; deviations point toward a counterfeit or heavily altered piece.

Chemically restoring or engraving a date onto a worn coin is a documented practice across many U.S. coin series — see our guide to documented counterfeit U.S. coins for more on how these alterations are typically identified. Do not clean a candidate coin, since cleaning can further obscure evidence of tampering.

Buying considerations

Certified versus raw coins

Never pay a premium for a raw, uncertified coin described as a “1933 Buffalo nickel.” No legitimate grading service will certify one as such, since the date was never struck.

Understanding grades and condition

If close inspection reveals your coin is actually a worn example of a genuine nearby date — such as 1931-S or 1934, the year production resumed — grade it using the same wear patterns applied across the series: the portrait’s cheekbone and hair braid first, then the bison’s shoulder and horn.

Problem coins

A dateless or nearly dateless Buffalo nickel has essentially no numismatic premium, regardless of which nonexistent date a seller might speculate it represents. These typically trade near melt or novelty value.

Suggested search terms and filters

If you’re building a date set, search for genuine years instead, such as “1934 Buffalo nickel” or “1931-S Buffalo nickel.” Avoid searches for “1933 Buffalo nickel,” which will only surface misattributed or altered coins.

Availability and pricing notes

Because no genuine 1933 Buffalo nickel exists, there is no legitimate market price to reference. Genuine nearby dates are priced according to their own mintage and condition — compare listings for actual years rather than any coin marketed under the 1933 date.

GetCoinHunt does not guarantee that every listing is authentic, accurately graded, or fairly priced. Authentication, grading, pricing, return policies, and fulfillment remain the responsibility of the dealer or marketplace offering the coin.

How the GetCoinHunt wishlist alert works

1. Search for the coin you actually want. Enter a genuine date, such as “1934 Buffalo Nickel” or “1931-S Buffalo Nickel,” to search participating dealer inventory.
2. Review the available matches. Compare listings by mint, grade, and certification.
3. Add the search to your wishlist. Save your preferred date and mint as a wishlist item with grade preferences where available.
4. Get notified about new matches. GetCoinHunt sends an alert when new dealer inventory matches your wishlist.
5. Evaluate the coin before buying. Verify certification and photographs, read the full listing, and review the seller’s terms.

Frequently asked questions

Was a Buffalo nickel ever struck dated 1933?

No. Like 1932, the depths of the Great Depression left the Mint with no need to strike a new nickel date, so no Buffalo nickel dated 1933 was ever produced.

Why would a coin appear to read “1933”?

Wear, acid treatment, or deliberate re-engraving can distort numerals on a genuine nearby date into something that superficially resembles 1933.

What should I do if I think I have a 1933 Buffalo nickel?

Have it examined under magnification by someone experienced with the series, or submit it to a major grading service. It will almost always turn out to be a worn or altered example of a genuine nearby date.

When did Buffalo nickel production resume after the gap years?

Production resumed in 1934 at all three mints, following the total gaps in 1932 and 1933 and the single-mint year of 1931.

What if I’m looking for a specific genuine Buffalo nickel date instead?

Search for the actual year and mint you want, and add it to your wishlist below. You’ll be notified when newly detected dealer inventory matches your search.

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