1938 Jefferson Nickel Errors, Key Dates and Varieties

The 1938 Jefferson nickel carries Felix Schlag’s familiar Jefferson-and-Monticello design into another year of a series collectors build by date and mint. GetCoinHunt helps you search inventory from multiple coin dealers in one place, compare available examples, and create a wishlist alert when the right coin is not currently listed.

Design and history

The 1938 Jefferson nickel uses Felix Schlag’s portrait of Thomas Jefferson on the obverse and his Monticello reverse. Standard diameter is 21.21 mm and the edge is plain. Composition for this year is 75% copper and 25% nickel, 5.00 grams. Circulation strikes came from Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco this year, all struck in the standard alloy. PCGS CoinFacts catalogs the full run of dates and mints for the design.

Errors and varieties to know

The headline issue for 1938 is Reverse of 1938 design study and repunched mintmarks.

The 1938 Jefferson nickel is the first year of Felix Schlag’s design, and it carries specialist interest in a Reverse of 1938 die state and several repunched-mintmark attributions. Neither PCGS nor NGC credits any 1938 error with the same status as the following year’s Doubled Monticello (see the PCGS major-variety guide and NGC’s VarietyPlus). Treat an ordinary 1938, 1938-D, or 1938-S nickel as a first-year issue unless it matches a published die attribution exactly.

Establish the strike type, mint, and composition before studying a small feature. A genuine doubled die, overdate, or overmintmark repeats on every coin struck from the affected die and must match the position, shape, and spread documented in a reputable attribution. Raised, rounded secondary detail belongs to the die; an incuse cut generally reflects damage. Mechanical (strike) doubling is normally flat and shelf-like, while die deterioration makes devices look swollen or ragged rather than crisply doubled.

How to examine a 1938 Jefferson nickel

A genuine off-center strike should omit part of the design and show an unstruck crescent. A clipped planchet should show compatible rim and edge characteristics. Broadstrikes expand beyond the normal diameter, and strike-throughs leave a depression or transferred texture rather than added metal. Vise jobs, dryer damage, acid exposure, and altered mintmarks all happen after the coin leaves the press — they are post-mint damage, not Mint errors.

Photograph the whole obverse, whole reverse, and edge in the same lighting before comparing a suspected feature with a normal example. Never clean, polish, or dip a candidate coin — cleaning creates hairlines and can destroy both collector value and diagnostic evidence.

Buying considerations

Certified versus raw coins

A certified coin has been authenticated, graded, and sealed in a holder by a third-party grading service such as PCGS or NGC. A raw coin is sold without that certification.

Before purchasing a certified coin:

• Confirm that the holder is from a recognized grading service.
• Verify the certification number through the grading service’s official website.
• Compare the holder’s photographs, when available, with the coin being offered.
• Remember that counterfeit grading holders also exist.

Understanding grades and condition

Full Steps refers to clear, uninterrupted steps at the base of Monticello on qualifying Mint State coins. It is a strike-quality designation recognized by the grading services, not an error or a separate variety, and it can add a meaningful premium to an otherwise common date. Value depends on the exact date, mint, recognized attribution, grade, and surface originality — compare completed sales rather than asking prices, and use third-party authentication for high-value keys and major varieties.

Problem coins

Watch for listings that describe cleaned, improperly cleaned, scratched, bent, damaged, corroded, environmental damage, or altered surfaces. Problem coins are sometimes placed in holders with a details grade rather than a standard numerical grade — they can be a less expensive way to own the coin, but you should understand the stated problem and compare the asking price accordingly.

Suggested search terms and filters

Begin with a broad search: “1938 Jefferson nickel,” “1938-P Jefferson nickel,” or “1938-D Jefferson nickel.”

Then narrow the results with terms that reflect your collecting goal:

• By mint mark: P, D, or S
• By grade: circulated, MS60-MS67 and above
• By certification: PCGS, NGC, or “certified 1938 Jefferson nickel”
• By feature: Reverse of 1938 design study and repunched mintmarks (described with the exact attribution, not marketed as a guess)

Availability and pricing notes

Coin availability can change quickly. Listings and asking prices do not necessarily represent completed-sale values — compare multiple examples, consider each coin’s grade and surface quality, and review recent market information before purchasing.

GetCoinHunt does not guarantee that every listing is authentic, accurately graded, or fairly priced. Authentication, grading, pricing, return policies, and fulfillment remain the responsibility of the dealer or marketplace offering the coin.

How the GetCoinHunt wishlist alert works

1. Search for the coin. Enter “1938 Jefferson Nickel” to search participating dealer inventory.
2. Review the available matches. Compare listings by grade, certification, condition, dealer, and asking price.
3. Add the search to your wishlist. If the right example is not available, save “1938 Jefferson Nickel” as a wishlist item. Add grade, grading-service, or price preferences when those options are available.
4. Get notified about new matches. When new dealer inventory matches your wishlist, GetCoinHunt sends an alert so you can review the listing before it disappears.
5. Evaluate the coin before buying. Open the dealer’s listing, verify the certification and photographs, read the complete description, and review the seller’s terms.

Frequently asked questions

Is the 1938 Jefferson nickel a key date?

No single 1938 issue carries the status of a true key date or a major recognized error. First-year interest and specialist repunched-mintmark attributions exist, but ordinary 1938, 1938-D, and 1938-S nickels are common in circulated grades.

How do I tell a die variety from a mint error or damage?

A die variety repeats on every coin struck from the same die and shows raised, rounded, repeatable detail. A mint error is an individual manufacturing accident, such as an off-center strike or a wrong planchet. Post-mint damage happens after the coin leaves the Mint and is not a genuine feature.

Is a 1938 Jefferson nickel worth much?

Ordinary circulated examples are common and inexpensive. Value concentrates in high-grade Mint State coins, confirmed examples of Reverse of 1938 design study and repunched mintmarks, and certified pieces with a verified attribution.

What if no suitable coin is currently available?

Add “1938 Jefferson Nickel” to your wishlist below. You’ll be notified when newly detected dealer inventory matches your search.

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